Kyoto Sensu (Folding Fans)
During a Kyoto trip during the summer months, it is quite common to see people pulling out folded fans from their purses or jackets to cool themselves. It is also quite common to see flat fans being handed out for advertising purposes. Japan is known for folding fans (ogi or sensu), the fans that are folded when not in use. While it is not known exactly when the folding fans or sensu were first made, they have been dated to the seventh century. Flat fans (uchiwa) had been imported from China to Japan for quite some time and pre-dated the sensu. Kyoto artisans led in developing folding fans, known as Kyo-sensu.
The earliest extant folding fans, hinoki fans, were made of thin slats of Japanese cypress (hinoki) that were stacked and bound. It is unknown whether Japanese folding fans had originally been made from paper. Eventually fans were made by pasting paper to a skeleton of split bamboo. Kyo-sensu are categorized into two types: hariogi (pasted fan) and itaogi (plated fan) based on materials and manufacturing methods. For hariogi fans there is a kamisen (paper fan) and a kinusen (silk fan), while itaogi is made by stacking thin slats of an aromatic wood, like white sandalwood. Many types of folding fans have been created over the years with various materials, shapes, and decorations.
Kyo-sensu were very popular with the court and the nobility. Kyo-sensu were a status symbol and when the warrior class began to gain power, folding fans were taken up by the samurai. By the 14th century, Kyoto artisans made specialized folding fans for cultural events, such as Noh (masked drama), Buyo (Japanese classical dance), and the tea ceremony.
Of the many types of sensu four have been especially important. Hiogi (the court fan) are used in ceremonies and for decoration. Hiogi are made from thin slats of cypress wood that are held together with silk thread. Kawahori-sen is a paper type fan similar to Hiogi that became popular in the Heian era and is used for decoration. Cha-sen is used in the tea ceremony (o-cha is the word for tea). Cha-sen is also used as a sign of respect and for making formal apologies, thanks, or other important statements. Mai-ogi is used in Japanese dance, particularly in a Noh performance. The word “mai” indicates a circular dance step; Noh dances use circular or mai dance steps.
Sensu proved to be very versatile, not only was it used for its most obvious purpose (cooling), but also it was used as a medium to write on. For example, sensu were used for simple governmental documents, letters, and prayers. It may seem a bit unusual but when one considers that sensu could be folded for easy storage, were made of paper, and were used by those in power and in Heian times in particular, aesthetics were most important to the aristocracy, using sensu for writing made sense (sorry for the pun). Sensu were also used by the warrior class. Stylish samurai used sensu (gunbai or gumpai and tessen fans) for giving directions and signals, concealed weapons, and shields. However, the author cannot vouch for their efficacy in combat.
Folding fan production grew rapidly in Kyoto. Over many years, following the lead of Kyoto artisans, Edo artisans began making folding fans, which were called “edo-sensu.” The popularity of sensu grew throughout Japan and by the 13th century folding fans were being exported to China. Eventually folding fans arrived in Europe, which were highly prized by the courtiers of the Bourbon dynasty of France. The fans were considered an art form and object of decorative art. By the 18th and 19th centuries, women from all social classes carried folding fans. By the 1920s, there were millions of folding fans exported to Europe and America.
The most popular images for sensu are Kyoto scenes such as Kyoto landmarks, Gion Festival, Daimonji, Kiyomizu Temple, and Higashi-yama. Some images have particular meanings. The fan itself is a sign of prosperity as it opens like a blooming flower or increasing wealth. Gold is a sign of increasing wealth; red and white are lucky colors; the images of chrysanthemums, cranes, and turtles wish for a long and lucky life. Popular materials include hemp, cotton and silk. Visitors often purchase silk fans with vivid coloring like reds, blacks and pinks with traditional patterns like cherry blossoms and maiko.
Sensu are to be closed whenever possible and opened only when necessary. They are opened using the thumb to push the sticks apart. One to three sticks are left closed (there is an ancient belief that once one has reached the highest point in any state, all that is left is failure, or once you have reached the top, there is no other way but down).
Kyo-sensu artisans are constantly creating new designs. Kyo folding fans are notable for their wide variety of styles that are suitable for a range of occasions whether it is a wedding ceremony or just everyday use. The hallmarks of the folding fan are superb craftsmanship and decorative skills using very special materials.