Nishi Hongan-ji

Background:

Hōnen (1133 –1212) was the founder of the first independent branch of Japanese Pure Land Buddhism called Jōdo-shū (“The Pure Land School”). Hōnen departed from esoteric Buddhism, which sought enlightenment. He preached that one is only required to chant nembutsu to be born into the Pure Land through Amida’s saving power for salvation. Devotion and good works were emphasized. His work was continued by Shinran (1173-1262), who modified Hōnen’s teaching, resulting in the True Pure Land Sect (Jōdo Shinshū).

Jōdo Shinshū attracted many farmers and the rural poor. It also attracted the notice of the Buddhist establishment in Kyoto and Nara and the sect was persecuted. However, under the efforts of Rennyō (1415-1599), the sect became very powerful and the persecution by other sects subsided. Jōdo-shinshū was led by Kōsa during the darkest periods of the Warring States Period (Sengoku Jidai, 1467 – 1581). This era came to an end when Japan was united under Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Hideyoshi was generous to Kōsa, who had aided him, and gave Kōsa and the Jōdo Shinshū a large tract of ground in Kyoto, which became Nishi Hongan-ji (Temple of the Primal Vow, the primal vow being Amida’s promise of salvation).

To the west of Nishi Hongan-ji is Higashi Hongan-ji, which is the other main temple of Jōdo Shinshū. It was given to Kōsa’s son by Toyotomi Ieyasu. Shinran’s remains are divided between the two temples.

Nishi Hogan-ji features

It is one of 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kyoto. It was established in 1591. A total of seven Nishi Hongan-ji structures have been designated National Treasures in three different categories: the karamon, Goei-dō and Amida hall (temple buildings), the Flying Cloud Pavilion, shoin and the Black study hall, including the Denrō gallery (residences) and the north Noh stage (miscellaneous structure).

Nishi Hongan-ji occupies almost an entire rectangular area bounded by Hanayachō Street to the north, Horikawa Street to the east, Shichijō Street to the south, and  Omiya Street to the west.

The Kara-mon (Chinese gate) is also known as Higurashi-mon (Sunset Gate). It is so pretty one doesn’t notice the sunset while looking at it. It is an example of Momoyama art depicting the Kirin, a mythological Chinese character. A depiction of this is seen on Kirin beer, widely available throughout Kyoto and recommended. It was originally built for Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s Fushimi castle, probably around 1598. After the castle was dismantled in 1623, it was moved to Nishi Hongan-ji in 1632 for a planned visit of Tokugawa Iemitsu to the temple.  

The Kara-mon is constructed as a four-legged gate with karahafu gables of undulating curves on the front and back. It has a roof in the irimoya style. The roof is covered by bark shingles made from hinoki cypress.

The Hiun-kaku, also known as The Floating Cloud Pavilion, because its reflection floats on the surface of Sōrō Pond, has a tea room featuring Thirty-Six Immortal Poets. It is a three storied mansion in the Tekisui Garden.  The Ryūhai-kyō (Dragon’s Back Bridge) is the longest stone bridge in Japan. When Hium-kaku was originally built, its only access was by water.

The Japanese style room for ceremonies and entertaining guests, shoin, is divided into two halls Taiman-jo and Shiro-Shoin hall.

Taimen-jo (Audience Room) is known for chōdia gamaé, also known as musha-kakushi, which is a hiding place for soldiers, in the back of the upper hall. This is a huge hall used for audiences between the monshu (head priest) and his flock. It features the open screen called unchū-hikō (Swans in the Clouds), also known as ōotori-no-ma (the Swan Room).

Shiro-shoin is composed of three chambers. Jōdan-no-ma (first room), also known as shimyō-no-ma (Purple Room); Ni-no-ma (Second Room); San-no-ma (Third Room), also known as Kujaku-no-ma (Peacock Room). It features kugi-kakushi, which is carving designed to conceal nails. The haritsuké-ga (mural) depicts famous Chinese emperors.

Nishi-Hongan-ji is famous for its Momoyama art. There is the Chamber of Storks, the Chamber of Fans, the Chamber of Tigers (drawn from skins), and the Chamber of Geese.