Chion-in Temple

Chion-in Temple is the headquarters of Jōdo-shū sect. This sect was founded in 1175 by Hōnen (1133-1212). It was restored and expanded during the Edo Era (1603-1867) with the assistance of the Tokugawa family. It is the repository of the legends known as the Seven Wonders.

Background

The 10^th century was a troubled time in Buddhism, it was the time of mappō. Buddhist beliefs were that the death of the historical Buddha would be followed by three distinct periods: (1) his teachings would flourish; (2) there would be a decline; (3) then there would be degeneration. The last stage, known as mappō, the dharma decline, was calculated by theologians to begin in 1052, after which earthly enlightenment would be all but impossible. During that time there was civil unrest and conflict in Japan that gave credence to the belief.

Hōnen grew up in the time of mappō.  In 1141, when Hōnen was nine years old, his father was fatally wounded in an attack. Hōnen was sent to his uncle’s temple after his father’s death.

Over many years of study, Hōnen sought a method of universal salvation to attain liberation in the Pure Land. While on Mt. Hiei he discovered Shan-tao’s Commentary on the Meditation Sutra that showed him the path was through nembutsu practice, which consists of saying the mantra called “nembutsu”, which goes “namu amida butsu” (I take refuge in Amida Buddha). It is based on Amida’s vow that he would not become a Buddha until he received in his Pure Land (situated in the west) all those who called out his name. This belief is called Pure Land or Amidism (Infinite Light). Hōnen established the nembutsu as an independent practice, emphasising that repetition of Buddha’s name in faith as the supreme means of salvation.

Hōnen left Mt. Hiei for Kyoto and began to spread the teaching of the nembutsu there. In the spring of 1175, he founded Jodo Shu, or the Pure Land sect, in Japan. The center of his teaching was at Yoshimizu, where Chion-in now stands

Honen’s teaching attracted many people. Those who came to Honen’s center to listen to his teachings included not only priests and nobles, but also warriors, an ex-robber, fishermen and prostitutes. Pure Land Buddhism attracted samurai who feared eternal damnation for killing during wartime. Among the powerful who were followers included Masako, wife of warrior Minamoto no Yoritomo, who founded the Kamakura government. Among the priests was Shinran (1173-1262), who is regarded as the founder of Jodo Shinshu, or the True Pure Land Denomination, which is associated with Hongan-ji Temples.

Features of Chion-in

At the top of the Sanmon lies the plain wood coffins of Gomi Kin’uemon and his wife, who were ordered by the Tokugawa shogun to construct the Sanmon. It is one of the Seven Wonders. After the Sanmon was completed, they committed suicide. It is a symbol of nonattachment to one’s life and body. (Note: it can only be seen when Sanmon is open to public).

Nearby is the Yūzen’en Garden which was redesigned in 1954 in commemoration of the 300th birthday of Miyazaki Yūzen, the founder of the Yūzen style of dyeing. It consists of two parts: one that draws water from a Higashiyama spring and one in the karesansui (dry rock garden) style. Inside the garden, there are two teahouses.

The Amida-dō (Amitabha Hall) features a 2.8-meter statue of Amida. The statue faces east so that people who worship Amida send their prayers to the Western Pure Land. It is used for ordinations and Buddhist weddings.

Mieidō (Main Hall) was built to house the portrait of Hōnen in 1639.

Under the roof of the Main Hall is another of the Seven Wonders, the forgotten umbrella, Wasuregasa, which symbolizes gratitude. There are two explanations explaining its presence. It was left by Hidari Jingorō, legendary artist, sculptor, architect, and entertainer, as a charm to ward off evil. Or it was left behind by a white fox in gratitude to Reigen, who protected his den during construction, who also promised to guard Chion-in. The umbrella is associated with water, so it could be a protective symbol against fire.

Mieidō is connected to Shūedō (Assembly Hall), Ōhōjō (Large Guest House), and Kohōjō (Small Guest House) by a corridor called the Nightingale Hallway (Uguisubari-no-rōka) which is designed to make chirping noises when someone walks on it, perhaps as a burglar alarm. The sound resembles a nightingale’s song and sounds like “hō kike yo” (listen to the Buddha’s teachings). Considered as one of the Seven Wonders it serves as a reminder to listen to the Buddha’s teachings.

The Hōjō Garden lies to the east. The Hōjō Garden is in the chisen kaiyūshiki (garden which is designed around a pond) style and designed in the early Edo Period (1600-1868) by the monk Gyokuen, who was connected to garden master Kobori Enshū. The garden includes the Shinji-ike (Heart Character) Pond, the Aoi-an Teahouse, and the Tokugawa Gongendō Hall. The plants and views are designed to bring out the beauty of the four seasons.

Shūedō (Assembly Hall) was reconstructed in 1635. The primary image housed in this building is a statue of Amida (Amitabha). In the front of the hall, there are images of the shoguns Tokugawa Iemitsu and Tokugawa Ietsuna. It was was used as a training area for monks.

The Ōhōjō (Large Guest House) was built in 1641 and is one of the most famous examples of shoin-zukuri architecture. It consists of several rooms with the fusuma-e (sliding door paintings) by the Kano School. Closed to public.

One of the famous paintings in the Ōhōjō is Sampō-mamuki no neko, one of the Seven Wonders. In this painting, the mother cat always appears to be looking in your direction no matter what angle you view her from. This painting represents the dictum to always keep your eyes forward, as well as representing the heart of a parent who protects their child, which in turn represents the compassion of the Buddha.

In the Kiku-no-ma (Chrysanthemum Room) of the Ōhōjō is a sliding door painting (fusuma-e) by Kanō Nobumasa, which is one of the Seven Wonders. Nukesuzume had sparrows painted so realistically that they came to life and flew away, leaving a mark by a white chrysanthemum. It symbolizes polishing one’s mind.

The Daishōrō (great bell tower) houses the Ōgane (large bell). This huge bell is rung 108 times (108 sins man is prone to commit) on New Year’s Eve and on Honen’s commemoration in April.

Reception Hall is decorated with Kano School paintings in the Chinese style landscapes and figures in landscapes and bird and flower scenes.

Nearby the Kuromon (Black Gate) is another of the Seven Wonders, the Uryū-seki. It is a large rock shaped like a melon (uri) with the name of the kami Gozu Tennō inscribed on it. According to legend, Gozu Tennō visited from the Yasaka Shrine, landed upon this rock, and later that night gourds started to grow from it. It symbolizes encouragement.

Kohōjō (Small Guest House) is one of the most famous examples of shoin-zukuri architecture. Kohōjō consists of six rooms and are all decorated with fusuma-e (sliding door paintings) done by the Kano School. Kohōjō is surrounded by the Hōjō Garden.

The Gongen-do mausoleum enshrines the spirits of Tokugawa Ieyasu, his son Hidetada, and grandson Iemitsu.

The Gobyō mausoleum is where Honen is interred.

Ōshakushi, another Wonder, symbolizes Buddha’s compassion. It is a huge rice paddle, 2.5 meters long and weighing about thirty kilograms. According to legend, during the Ōsaka Summer Campaign of 1614, Miyoshi Seikai, a Buddhist novice, used this rice paddle to scoop rice for the soldiers. The Japanese word meaning “to scoop” is the same as the word for “to save/rescue,” sukuimasu. Thus, the huge rice scooper symbolizes saving mankind and leading them to the Pure Land and Amida’s compassion.

The steps to the Sanmon gate were featured on “The Last Samurai.” The Last Samurai is a Hollywood movie of the fate of Japanese samurai in the early Meiji period.

Access: Higashiyama station, Tozai Line subway. It is nearby Maruyama Park.