Shimogamo Shrine

Shimogamo Jinja

in Tadasu no Mori, the forest where lies are revealed

At the delta formed by the Kamo River (Kamogawa) and the Takano River (Takanogawa), within the primeval forest known as Tadasu no Mori is one of the oldest and most venerated shrines in Kyoto, the Shimogamo Shrine (Shimogamo jinja).

The kami of the Shimogamo Shrine have been protecting the Kyoto area since the 6th century. Artifacts dating from the Yayoi Period (400 BC to 300 AD) indicate shrine activity for over two thousand years. The Shimogamo Shrine is located in a forest known as the Tadasu no Mori, whose naming is of unknown origin, but “tadasu” can be interpreted either as “justice” or “delta” and the forest has been known as “the forest where lies are revealed,” indicates that there was some sort of tribunal to hear disputes in ancient times.

The Shimogamo Shrine grew in influence, power, and wealth. It was not only associated with the powerful Kamo clan but also the Hata, another influential clan. These clans supported both the Shimogamo and the Kamigamo shrines. Emperor Temmu (675 – 686) funded the first shrine buildings. The Shimogamo acquired much land starting with generous land grants in the Tempyo Shoko period (749 – 757) and by the 11th century, the shrine had about seven hundred hectares of land.

Demonstrating its close imperial ties, when Emperor Kanmu named Heian-kyō as the capital city, the Shimogamo shrine priests prayed for its success.

The two main kami of the Shimogamo Shrine are Tamayori-hime and her father, Kamo Taketsunomi. Kamo Taketsunomi is the ancestor of the Kamo clan. He descended to earth on Mt. Mikage (a mountain in eastern Kyoto). He appeared as a three-legged deity of the sun, Yatagarasu and took Jimmu, the fit emperor, around Kyoto and decided the site of the Shimogamo Shrine. His daughter, Tamayori-hime, while purifying her body in the Kamo River (Kamogawa) espied an arrow floating on the water. She took the arrow and placed it on the bank. The arrow turned into a handsome god, Honoikazuchi-no-mikoto (God of Fire and Thunder). They married and had a son, Wakeikazuchi. Wakeikazuchi has the power of thunder to impregnate the and with life. Thus Tamayori-hime is venerated for marriage and offspring. Given that both the Hata and Kamo clans had close ties to the Kamo Shrines, that Kamo Taketsunomi appeared as a sun deity to Jimmu, and that Tamayori-hime represents fecundity, it is not at all surprising that the Imperial family had close ties with the Shimogamo Shrine.

Representations of lightning bolts of the God of Thunder and Lightning
Torii gate within forest

Imperial patronage flowed freely during the Heian Period. Both the Shimogamo and the Kamigamo shrines were named chief shinto shrines (Ichinomiya). In 965, Emperor Murakami ordered messengers to report on major events to the kami of the Kamo Shrines, Tamayori-hime and Kamo Taketsunomi. The Shimogamo Shrine was the most prosperous during the reign of Emperor Saga (809 – 823). Much of the architecture and traditions date from Saga’s time. Saga appointed his daughter, Sai-in (shrine maiden) for the Shimogamo shrine, much like the shrine maiden of the Ise Shrine. Sai-in would make yearly appearances and in celebration of this event the shrine priests would decorate themselves and the shrine with hollyhock (aoi) branches, which gave rise to the present day Aoi Matsuri, one of the premier festivals in Kyoto.

Karahashi Bridge

Karasaki no Yashiro was the site of purification rites held when a saiō retired. Upon imperial visits, the Emperor would stop at this site.

Beginning with the impoverishment of the Imperial court in the 13th century, followed by the warring States Period, the Imperial Court no longer gave so lavishly to the Shimogamo Shrine. The tradition of Sai-in was suspended and Imperial visits no longer had the same pomp and splendor. After order was restored in the Edo Period, the Shimogamo Shrine never received the power and influence it previously had under previous shogunal governments. It was only until the Meiji Restoration of the Emperor did the Shimogamo Shrine regain some of its prestige. During the Meiji Period the Shimogamo Shrine was second only to the Ise Shrine in importance. However, after World War II, with the power of the emperor diminished again, the Shimogamo Shrine faced difficult times. It was able to overcome the challenges by becoming more community based through festivals, fairs, and holding ceremonies important to the people of Kyoto.

Sawata Shrine

Originally a deity that protected the Imperial palace, in 1910, Sawata kami emerged in the shape of a ball, as the first rugby game was played nearby the Shimogamo Shrine.

Under shikinen sengu, the Shimogamo Shrine is renewed every twenty-one years.  It not only provides physical renewal, but also it is symbolic of spiritual renewal. Shikinen sengu is an important shinto ritual, but only a few shrines follow it. The most recent renewal was in 2013.